Brassiere



June 1970 M. HADLEY-WEBB 3,516,415

BRASSIERE Filed Aug. 12, 1968 INVENTOR. M/(f/(LLE H4010- W658 United States Patent 3,516,415 BRASSIERE Michelle Hadley-Webb, Heubach, Germany, assignmtoi'ilriumph Universa G.m.b.H., Bern, Switzerland,

Filed Aug. 12, 1968, Ser. No. 751,997 Int. Cl. A41c 3/00 US. Cl. 128489 8 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Brassiere where the breast cups are made of non-elastic material, which has lateral back portions made at least partly of elastic material and which are generally triangular with one corner of the triangle disposed proximate the lower border of the brassiere approximately below the point of the breast, another corner disposed at the back closure and a further corner at the rear shoulder strap connection, which portions are of greater elasticity in one of two directions perpendicular to one another, which direction is along a line that is inclined forwardly toward the lower border at an angle of about 60.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to brassieres of the type defined by cups and panels connected thereto to provide support for the cups. More in particular the invention relates to a brassiere having cups of non-elastic material and lateral back panels made at least partly of elastic material.

In the design of brassieres the main problem is to transfer and secure the tensile forces that support and form the bust to the back. The main concern in designing brassieres therefore is enhancing the configuration of the bust cups proper to place it upon the correct insertion of the lateral panels which are connected thereto and also upon the shoulder straps if the brassiere is not a strapless one. Side portions (and supporting straps) should on the one hand impede the freedom of the movement of the wearer as little as possible, but on the other hand, they should transfer the forces in such a manner that the brassieres are reliable in any situation. Simultaneously, an effort is made to provide brassieres with these means which in any size adapt themselves to the largest possible number of persons.

The use of elastic materials in any size provides great comfort for a large circle of wearers. The requirements of reliability of fit for the same circle of persons, however, are hard to meet. Where the tensile forces are insufiicient the breast would only be poorly formed. An excess of tensile forces can readily lead to distortion of the profile of the bust and to inconvenience as the brassiere is worn. The adaptation of the different elastic zones to one another is particularly diflicult because the elastic material that continuously changes form and position can affect the lateral upper parts and the back parts on the body and due to this sliding of the counterparts in turn adversely affect the form of the bust proper.

Typical problems also result from the fact that the back closure which as a rule is only of minor height and which dictated by the decollette is disposed lower than the bust must not slide upwardly into the cut out portion of the dress in the back. It is known that brassieres where the Patented June 23, 1970 lateral panels consist of single layer elastic material are relatively poorly equipped to meet these problems. Brassieres where the back panels are made entirely of nonelastic material are likewise unsatisfactory. Brassieres have already been designed where the lateral panels consist of elastic material and are in certain areas made in double lyers in order to decrease the elasticity there. Apart from the fact that such brassieres do not always attain the desired objective, expenditures of material and production costs for the double layer formation of individual parts are relatively high.

SUMMARY It is therefore an object of the invention to improve known brassieres in such a manner that on the one hand the correctly adapted introduction of the elastic forces to the curve of the forces is insured, and furthermore, simplification of the brassiere and thus economical production are made possible.

Accordingly, the invention provides in a brassiere of this type that the lateral back parts are of substantially triangular shape and are so arranged that one corner at the lower edge of the brassiere is disposed generally below the point of the bust, one corner at the back closure, and one at the rearward connection of the strap and that these parts are of greater elasticity in one of two directions that are perpendicular to one another and in particular in a direction inclined about 60 forward against the lower edge of the brassiere. Suitably the side back panel portions are about of the shape of a rectangular triangle whose hypotenuse coincides with the lower edge of the brassiere and whose acute angle is disposed substantially below the point of the bust.

The edges extending from the rearward connection of the shoulder strap to the area below the breast cup of the lateral back parts that are essentially non-elastic in this direction are suitably reinforced.

Between the lateral outer edge of the breast cups and the outwardly inclining edge of the lateral back portions an insert of substantially triangular shape may be arranged that is of a material which has greater elasticity in one of two perpendicularly disposed directions and particularly in a direction which is rearwardly inclined somewhat below 60 with respect to the lower edge of the brassiere.

Suitable material is used for the lateral back parts as well as for the inserts which is only elastic in one direction but non-elastic in the other direction.

At the same time the edges extending from the front upper shoulder strap connection to the inclined edge of the lateral back portions of the inserts which are nonelastic in that direction may be of reinforced construction. This reinforcement can be achieved by forming a seam which widens in triangular fashion toward the inclined edge of the lateral back portions.

The forward upper region of the brassiere is essentially non-elastic. The inserts in the lower forward region of the brassiere are essentially non-elastic or elastic in vertical direction.

The shoulder straps are made preferably of non-elastic material and are provided with means for adjusting their length.

Owing to the particular cut of the brassiere in accordance with the invention and the use of material which has greater elasticity in one direction of two directions that are perpendcular to one another or is entirely non-elastic in one direction, an entirely novel support of the breast is achieved. Bulging or deforming of the breast is almost impossible because the entire region of the decollete is rigidly suspended by means of tensioning straps which engage directly through the upwardly inclined edge of the lateral back parts. This rigid suspension is achieved among other things in that the tensional forces that extend in the non-elastic reinforced upper edge of the lateral back parts are directly absorbed at the connection of the shoulder strap by the non-elastic shoulder strap. Nonetheless, the brassiere in accordance with the invention affords the greatest possible comfort for the wearer because it is elastic in the horizontal direction and because furthermore, at the rear connection of the strap with the back closure a great elastic expansion component is effective.

The triangular inserts which are located between the lateral outer edge of the breast cups and the outwardly rising edge of the lateral back portions possess a main direction of elasticity force disposed perpendicularly to that of the lateral back portions. Thus, there exists a nonelastic relation between the front strap connection and the point at the upper edge of the lateral back parts which is closest to this strap connection. This form of construction provides an additional support. Inasmuch as these inserts are highly elastic in the other direction, suitable comfort is also provided in this area for the wearer.

To the extent that the wearer has to eliminate undesirable fat cushions or the like in this area, these are modulated by the change in elasticity towards the center of the breast in a manner that is desirable for reasons of shaping.

Nonetheless, cutting at the rigid edges does not arise because these are able to yield in the required manner in that the continuation of the non-elastic edge is located in the direction of the greatest elasticity of the lateral back parts.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Further objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the accompanying drawing.

The breast cups 1 and 2 which are made of non-elastic material are connected in the front decollete area with parts 3 and 4 made likewise of non-elastic material. The front lower region of the breast cup comprises two insert members 5 and 6 of substantially triangular form which abut in the forward longitudinal axis 7 of the brassiere and are adapted to the arcuation of the breast cups 1 and 2. The members 5 and 6 rest with their lower edges against the border 8 of the brassiere. The members 5 and 6 suitably consist of a material which is elastic only in vertical direction as indicated by the arrows 9, but they are non-elastic in horizontal direction.

The lateral back panels 10, 11 of the brassiere in accordance with the invention are of generally triangular shape and in the example illustrated they are in the form of rectangular triangles. This principle of construction is indicated in the right half of the drawing by dot and dash lines.

In this connection the acute angle 12 of substantially 30 is approximately below the nipple of the breast, the hypotenuse of the triangle registers approximately with the lower border 8 of the brassiere, the right angle 14 is disposed at the rearward strap connection and the other acute angle 15 of substantially 60 in the back closure. With this form of construction the directions of the greater and the smaller elasticity or of elasticity and nonelasticity are so arranged that the lateral back portions 10, 11 are expansible in the direction 16 indicated by the arrow which is inclined forwardly toward the lower border 8 of the brassiere at the angle (1:60.

The remaining areas between the lateral seams 17 of the breast cups 1 and 2 and the rising upper edge 18 of the lateral back panels are likewise of triangular shape inserts 19 of a material that expands in one direction. The main directions of elasticity of the lateral back panels 10, 11 and of the insert panels 19, 20 are disposed perpendicularly to one another which is reflected in that the angle 3 of the main direction of elasticity of the inserts 19, 20 is rearwardly inclined by 60 with respect to the edge 8 of the brassiere.

In the brassiere in accordance with the invention the supported lower region of the brassiere as well as the breast cups proper and the front decollete region are non-elastic. These parts which primarily are of breast forming effect are supported at the forward upper shoulder strap connection 21 by the shoulder straps 22 which are preferably non-elastic while the tensional forces arising in the forward lower area of the brassiere are conducted along the non-elastic inclined edge 18 of the lateral back parts toward the rearward strap connection 23.

The shortest connection of the forward strap engagement 21 that substantially follows the normal with respect to the edge 18 of the lateral back panels 10, 11 is reinforced by the non-elastic edges 24 of the insert panels 19 or 20.

In this connection the remainders of elasticity of the edges 18 and 24 can be eliminated in that these edges are lined or reinforced by simple doubling of material.

The seams in the elastic material are made in the form of known zig-zag seams.

Having now described my invention with reference to the embodiments illustrated in the drawing, I do not wish to be limited thereto, but what I desire to protect by Letters Patent is set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. Brassiere having breast cups made of nonelastic material and lateral back portions made at least partly of elastic material, said brassiere having two cooperating closure members, a lower border having two ends each connected to one of said closure members, a pair of shoulder straps each having one front end connected above one of said breast cups and another end connected to the upper end of one lateral back portion, each said lateral back portion being generally triangular in shape with one corner of the triangle disposed along said lower border approximately below the point of one cup adapted to receive the point of a breast, another corner of the triangle being disposed proximate one said closure member and a further corner proximate said another end of one said shoulder strap, and each said lateral back portion having greater elasticity in one of two directions generally perpendicular to each other along a line which is inclined forwardly toward said lower border at an angle or of approximately 60.

2. Brassiere in accordance with claim 1, where said lateral back portions are generally in the form of a rectangular triangle having a hypotenuse that coincides approximately with said lower border and whose acute angle is disposed approximately below the said point of a cup.

3. Brassiere in accordance with claim 2 having upper border portions extending from the upper ends of said lateral back portions to the points below said points of the cups where said lateral back portions that are essentially non-elastic in that direction are reinforced.

4. Brassiere in accordance with claim 3 comprising a generally triangular insert disposed between the lateral Outer border of each breast cup and said upper border portions of the lateral back portions, said inserts being of a material of greater elasticity in one of two directions perpendicular to one another that is rearwardly inclined at an angle of about 60 toward the lower edge of the brassiere.

5. Brassiere in accordance with claim 4, where said generally non-elastic inserts from said upper front shoulder strap ends to said upper border portions of said lateral side portions which are upwardly inclined, are Ref rences Cit d reinforced.

6. Brassiere in accordance with claim 5, where the re- UNITED STATES PATENTS infOrcement is obtained by seam formations which widen 3,094,991 1963 Smith 128-489 in triangular fashion toward said upper borders of said 3,392,732 968 Holscher 128-489 lateral back portions, 5 81 7/1968 Sachs 128-494 7. Brassiere in accordance with claim 6 having a front 3,433,229 3/ 1969 THSChmanupper portion which is essentially non-elastic. I

8. Brassiere in accordance with claim 6 having lower ADELE EAGER Prlmary Exammer front insert portions intermediate said breast cups and 10 U S C1, X R sa1d lower border which are essentially non-elastic in the 128 494, 493 horizontal direction. 

